I’m talking about the sweet spot between romanticism and practicality.
Many people coming to live in Italy are swept away by the former while not giving ample attention to the latter. I was one of those people. I started out with a pastoral dream. You know, the renovated farmhouse with verdant views of the surrounding Italian hills. And don’t forget quaint villages and small, historic cities a stone’s throw away.
My vision was that I’d be drunk on peaceful, stunning landscapes. I’d be sipping local wines and partaking of rustic Umbrian foods. Much of my time would be spent painting in my light-filled studio, especially during the winters with a fire in the wood-burning stove crackling nearby.
That was the romanticism that largely fueled my efforts to make Italy my home. However, I never slowed myself down to also weigh the practicalities in choosing my place of residence. I didn’t project myself into the future to see how I might be feeling about my Italian life in its totality. I didn’t properly consider giving attention to ALL of my essential needs.
It has taken me almost ten years to perfect the right balance in Italy.
Trial and error, right? I am a big believer in getting started with something, even if it isn’t perfect, rather than being immobilized by fear of making a wrong choice. But, If I had a do-over, I would have given more attention to how certain practicalities would affect me in the long run. Maybe I wouldn’t have bounced around Italy (Umbria, Rome, Treviso/Venice, and now Imperia).
Still, I don’t regret living in any of those places because of what they taught me:
Umbria taught me the importance of making quietude a more important part of my life.
Rome taught me how much I love having amazing art and vibrant culture at my fingertips. It also taught me that I abhor disorganization and horrible traffic (I’m dreaming of the day when driving, other than our Vespa, is a rare thing).
Treviso/Venice taught me how much I love systems and bureaucracy that run with greater efficiency and precision. It taught me how much I adore being close to the sea (or an ocean) AND an international airport.
Imperia/Liguria has taught me how essential regular exposure to the sun and open air is to maintain a buoyant mood. Having France so close by isn’t been a bad thing, either.
When I consider all the learnings above, I ask myself, “Have you landed forever in Imperia?”
The answer is (don’t laugh), “I’m not sure.” Why? Because I’m due for a hard look at the most essential things for my happiness and test whether our current situation is firing on all cylinders. (Stay tuned!)
Now, let’s talk about you, if you’re planning on moving to Italy. I’d like to offer some words of advice.
Don’t ignore the practicalities of where you might live in Italy.
And the practicalities vary considerably across Italy’s twenty regions. This is sometimes lost on people planning the ex-pat leap to Italy. They buy or rent a house, they land with their ERV in hand, and then the reality of their place of residence sets in. Top practical considerations might be:
Healthcare
While Italy has a national healthcare system (ranked in the World’s Top Five), the cost of participation and the access AND quality of services vary. For instance, Sicily may be stunningly beautiful, but for medical matters requiring specialized treatment, you’ll probably have to take a plane to get it. If you are nearing or in retirement age, this is a biggie.
The local questura/immigration police
If you land in a poorer region of Italy, it may have sparser staff services. Most newbies will be dealing with their questura for their permesso di soggiorno and its yearly renewal. Wouldn’t you like to know well in advance what to expect in this regard? My best, swiftest experience was in Veneto. In Umbria, I waited ten months, one year, and that was pre-pandemic. It arrived two months before its expiry date.
General public services
For me, Veneto holds first place with buttoned-up precision. Rome was a vastly different story. Don’t get me started on trash pickup and parking.
Ease of getting around
If you’re content to live sequestered in the countryside and I you’re willing to drive a fair distance to a good train station or airport, then you’ll be all set. But if you don’t want to be hamstrung for easy travel and roaming, carefully consider your proximity to a reasonable travel hub.
Local politics
This will have a direct correlation to public services. Some cities’ leaders are overly mired in a good old boy’s network and/or glued to keeping an easy status quo. That can translate to a town, region, or city that isn’t progressive and looking to the future. Do you want to live long-term in a place like that?
Do your due diligence!
Many people don’t because they’re so fixated on their romantic notions of living in Italy. Many romantic notions DO materialize and endure, but often they lose their allure under the weight of difficult practicalities.
I know that gearing up for the ERV (Elective Residency Visa) process and the subsequent trans-global move can suck up a person’s energy. But I strongly urge anyone making this leap to hunker down and do a deep dive into all the above aspects of an intended place to live. Facebook es-pat groups and blogs can yield a lot of experiential detail from those who’ve gone before you. Make Google your best friend in this regard!
You CAN find the right balance in Italy.
It might not be perfect, but you can find an equation that works for you. But that means looking past your first few years and imagining yourself in a particular part of Italy for the long haul! Make sure that none of your essential needs or desires are lacking!
Ciao, Jed!
I couldn’t agree more with everything you said. I came to live in Sulmona for one year without a car to experience all the seasons and just to be here longer than 2-3 weeks. My rose-colored glasses were pretty thick when I arrived but oh….I have learned SO much!
I am now in the process of renewing my permesso, bought a car, working on getting a license, studying italiano ogni oggi and crazy in love with Sulmona.
I am renting, which I never in a million years thought I would do. But, one of the biggest things I’ve learned is never to say never.
And those rose-colored glasses come off the shelf every morning when I open the shutters, see blue skies and mountains capped in snow…I am blissfully content.
Grazie for all your help your posts have been and auguri on your dieci di anni in italia!
Ciao Debra! So good to hear from you and to hear that you’ve taken the plunge and are swimming around in this new, different world. Congratulations on hunkering down and working on getting the important things done that will lead to long-term happiness. Italy’s beauty will never be a gift that stops giving and giving. I’m constantly pinching myself!
Not to mention
– availability and quality of tradespeople (if a reno is on your horizon)
– availability and quality of mobile and Internet services
– whether there is competition for gas, electric, water (and whether you have running, potable water at all)
– quality of schools if you have children
– whether you lovely new home is surrounded by neighbours with yard dogs
You may start out in a place that feels incredibly sympatico…then suffer an erosion due to the irritations and frustrations of living there. Rent first, buy later.
Good post, Jeb.
V
Excellent add-ons, Vian. I could do an entire post (and probably I will soon) on internet service. We’ve had open fiber on our street for over a year, but the “systems” are updating and making it available for connection yet. SO crazy!
Hi Jed. Like Tammy noted, this particular posting came at a good time. We will be heading to Italy in April for a visit with old friends living in Umbria and then some time exploring Puglia. My mother’s family came from Calabria. We will explore that region at some point but first, Puglia, a province we’ve never visited. We are scouting for places to buy but are doing our due diligence as you suggest. All very good advice. Thank you. We plan to visit your area next year.
Ciao Carlo! I’m glad this post landed at a good time. If we were considering moving south, Puglia would be on my hit list. But I’ve never done a deep dive into the services and logistics there. Let me know what you find out. Liguria is beautiful, but I have to say that some areas within the region can be very provincial. The translation is that getting things done can be a bit challenging. Health here is quite good, though!
Buongiorno, Jed. This was so essential for me to read today. Thank you for your honest and personal insight.
I’m not sure where my future Italian dream lies; whether it’s a full-time move (SO MANY FINANCIAL, TAX and POLITICAL things to understand) or a 90 day visit but I continue to appreciate everything you share.
Best to you and Simone.
Ciao Tammy! I’m glad the timing of this post was good for you. You’ll find your sweet spot, whether it is part-time or full-time in Italy. Much of it will be determined by whether you want to keep a foot in both countries. But it is ALL doable! Don’t hesitate to ask questions as they surface. I’ll do the best I can to give some perspective or to point you in the right direction! Bacioni!